FREE Pattern: Cobbled Street Cowl

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*Ravelry link

It took forever for me to finally sit down and write this pattern but it is finally here. I haven’t really been designing much lately, in a bit of a dry spell at the moment. Have many ideas but haven’t been able to bring myself to start any of them. It takes quite a while for me to get to a finished object for my designs and I think I needed a break so have been enjoying crocheting other people’s designs for a bit. I have a couple that I should start since the yarn is waiting there for me, but I am definitely taking things a bit slower when it comes to designing.

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I love this cowl so much, it is one of my favourites along with my Uva shawl. As I mentioned in my ta-dah post this cowl is inspired on the beautiful cobbled streets in Edinburgh. It is a very simple tunisian pattern, uses two stitches and I have created an easy chart for you guys to follow. I would even recommend this as a first pattern for those who are learning tunisian: it uses basic stitches, no increases or decreases and you only need one skein of yarn. How perfect is that?

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The yarn I used is Madelinetosh Merino Light, it is a lovely yarn to work with and it feels even nicer after blocking. I was left with a bit of yarn from my skein but I liked the length so stopped there, it measures 18cm wide for 86cm long before joining both ends. Gauge is not really important but in case you are interested each pattern repeat (Rows 1 to 24) measures 18cm x 11.5cm.

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Cobbled Street Pattern

Materials:

4mm Tunisian crochet hook (30cm long)

Madelinetosh Merino Light 4ply: 1 skein in Tern

Needle to weave in ends.

 

Abbreviations

Ch – Chain

End st or “E” in chart– Last stitch on forward pass

Lp – Loop(s)

Sk – Skip

Sl st – Slip stitch

St – Stitch(es)

Tss or “|” in chart– Tunisian simple stitch

Tks or “V” in chart– Tunisian knit stitch

YO – Yarn over

Stitch Guide (Visit my tutorials page for photo tutorials)

Foundation forward pass: Insert hook on back bump of second ch from hook, YO and pull up a loop, *insert hook on back bump of next ch, YO and pull up a loop, repeat from * until last ch.

Return pass: YO and pull through 1 lp, *YO and pull through 2 lps, repeat from * until you have 1 lp on hook.

Tunisian Simple Stitch (Tss or | in chart): Skip first stitch, *insert hook from right to left under next front vertical bar, yarn over and draw up a loop; repeat from * across until last stitch, work last stitch normally. Work return pass.

Tunisian Knit Stitch (Tks or V in chart): Skip first stitch, *insert hook between front and back vertical bars of next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop; repeat from * across until last stitch, work last stitch normally. Work return pass.

End St (E in chart): Last st of the forward pass is made into ch created by the return pass. Insert your hook under the vertical bar where you usually do it AND the strand behind it and pull up a loop.

Binding off: As with every row you start with one lp on your hook. For each stitch, insert hook as normal (depending on whether it is a Tss or Tks), YO and pull through both loops (through the st and the loop you had already). Continue until the last st.

Instructions

Ch 40. Work foundation forward pass (40st, each lp on the hook is a st). Work return pass.

Row 1 to 24: Follow chart for each row, reading it from right to left and from bottom to top. The chart indicates which stitches you must work in the forward pass. Work the return pass normally for each row.

Rows 25 to 192: Repeat Rows 1-24 seven times for a total of eight repeats. When you are in your last row work the binding off as you follow the pattern (see stitch guide). You can continue the pattern if you still have yarn to your desired length. Fasten off but don’t cut yarn.

Use mattress stitch to seam the two ends together. Weave in ends.

x

Sol

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Free pattern: Vintage Chunky Cowl

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This is my second chunky cowl design of this winter, it is an oversized cowl using vintage colours which goes well with many things in my (and hopefully your) wardrobe. It is quite big, so if you don’t like too much fabric around your neck I would make this less wide and maybe a bit longer. It is up to you!

If you are looking for a quick and warm project for this winter then you should give this a try, the yarn is quite affordable, easy to work with and lovely colours available.

Enjoy 🙂

Vintage Cunky Cowl Pattern

This tunisian crochet pattern is worked flat and then folded and sown to make it double. The inside of the fabric is therefore not shown so there is no need to weave ends since they can be left inside. It uses only two stitches and it works up very quickly.

If you don’t know the stitches or how to change colours with tunisian crochet please refer to my tutorials page where you will find everything you need to work this pattern. The two stitches used for the sample in the picture are tunisian reverse simple stitch and tunisian twisted knit stitch, though I will replace this last one in the following pattern for the normal tunisian knit stitch since I don’t have a tutorial for the twisted version. If you like the look of the twisted knit stitch please give it a try, it is a bit slower to work but it looks very nice, there are several tutorials online you can search for.

The cowl measures 40cm wide and 85cm long when flat (before sewing) but you should make it as wide and long as you prefer, it is quite big as you can see in the picture. My gauge for this yarn is 10sts and 10 rows in the stitch pattern in 4inx4in, however gauge is not essential since you can just adjust the amount of stitches to get the width you want for the yarn you wish to use.

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Materials

Deramores Vintage Chunky Yarn:

  • 2 x 100g Chalk (Colour A)
  • 1 x 100g Rose (Colour B)
  • 1 x 100g Barley (Colour C)

9mm tunisian crochet hook with extension

Needle to sew ends together if you prefer this instead of slip stitching.

Abbreviations

ch – chain

st – stitch

Tks – tunisian knit stitch

Trss – tunisian reverse simple stitch

lp – loop(s)

sl st – slip stitch

yo – yarn over

end st – last stitch of forward pass (see stitch guide below)

Stitch Guide

Foundation Row – Forward Pass: Chain number of stitches needed. Skip first chain, insert hook under back strand of next chain, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat until last chain.

Return Pass: Yarn over pull through one loop on hook, (yarn over and pull through two loops on hook) until you have one loop left on hook.

Last stitch of any forward pass (End st): Insert hook under last vertical bar and strand behind it, yarn over and pull up a loop.

Tunisian Knit Stitch (Tks): Skip first st, insert hook between front and back vertical bars, yarn over and pull up a loop. Continue this way until last stitch, work last stitch normally. Work return pass normally.

Tunisian Reverse Simple Stitch (Trss): Skip first st, insert hook from right to left under back vertical bar, yarn over and pull up a loop. Work last stitch normally. Work return pass normally.

To change colours at the start of next forward pass: work previous return pass normally until you have two loops left on your hook. Drop old colour and pick up new colour, yarn over and pull through two loops on hook.

Slip st as in Tks: Insert hook between front and back vertical bars, pull through two loops on hook.

Slip st End st: Insert hook under last vertical bar and strand behind it, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

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Instructions

With A ch 40. Work foundation forward pass, you should have 40 sts, each loop in the hook counts as a st. Work return pass.

Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, Tks in next st and each st across until last st, work End st. Work return pass.

Row 2 – 6: Repeat Row 1.

Row 7: Skip first vertical bar, Tks in next st and each st across until last st, work End st. Work return pass, change to B at the end of return pass. No need to cut yarns, you can carry it along on the back.

Row 8: Skip first vertical bar, Trss in next st and each st across until last st, work End st. Work return pass.

Row 9: Repeat Row 8.

Row 10: Skip first vertical bar, Trss in next st and each st across until last st, work End st. Work return pass, change to A at the end of return pass. No need to cut yarns, you can carry it along on the back.

Rows 10 to 100: Repeat Rows 1 to 10 alternating colours B and C.

Row 101: Skip first vertical bar, slip st as in Tks in next st and each st across until last st, slip st End st.

Fold the fabric lengthways so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing you and sew in the long edge to make a tube. You can use slip st or any other joining method you like. Turn the fabric over so that the right side is facing (make sure all the ends remain inside the tube) and close the tube to turn it into a cowl by sewing both edges together. You will be sewing one circumference against another so that you end up with something like a donut (I am not sure I am making any sense so please ask if you are totally lost!). Don’t sew the four layers together or you won’t be able to hide the seams on the inside of the cowl when you are wearing it.

Let me know if you have any questions!

x

Sol

 

FREE pattern: Teardrops Chunky Cowl

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Chunky goodness! This pattern was a joy to work and it kept me company during all those train rides and lonely hotel nights. I liked it so much I started another one right after I finished the first! I am obsessive like that 😛

It uses just two tunisian stitches, simple stitch and double stitch which is just a variation of the first really. It uses a really big hook so I do recommend using the ones with the extension, I am not even sure they have sizes this big for the normal long tunisian hooks.

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I really like the contrasting colours for both cowls, they use different yarns and I explain the difference later on. I think it would look great with grey and a nice neon colour 🙂

The seams are hidden inside the cowl so that they are not visible, and the best thing is that you DON’T HAVE TO WEAVE IN ANY ENDS!

Enjoy 😉

Teardrops Chunky Cowl Pattern

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This tunisian crochet pattern is worked flat and then folded and sown to make it double. The inside of the fabric is therefore not shown so there is no need to weave ends since they can be left inside. It uses only two stitches and it works up very quickly.

I have two widths available depending on the type of chunky yarn you use, some are denser than others. If your yarn is approx. 100 mt per 100g then you will chain less stitches, if your yarn is closer to 140 mt per 100g then you can make your cowl wider with the same amount of yarn in grams.

If you don’t know how to work tunisian simple stitch or how to change colours at the beginning of the forward pass please refer to my tutorials page where you will find all you need to work this pattern, including how to read my tunisian crochet tutorials.

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The cowl in the denser yarn (barley and green) measures 34cm wide when worked flat (17cm finished width once folded) and is 80 cm long.

The grey/royal blue cowl is worked in a lighter chunky yarn and it measures 42cm when worked flat (21cm finished width once folded) and is also 80cm long.

For both I used 2 x 100g balls of the background colour, only a few grams left. You will need only one 100g ball for the contrasting colour.

For the grey/royal cowl I got a smaller gauge which meant that I obtained the same length with less amount of rows, I recommend you simply work as many as you can while following the pattern.

Materials

You can choose between the following yarns:

  • Woolyknit Lofty Chunky: This is a denser yarn with approx. 100m/100gr
    • 2 x 100g balls in Barley (used all 200g) – Colour A
    • 1 x 100g ball in Olive (used 50g) – Colour B
    • Gauge: 11 sts and 1o rows in 10cm x 10cm worked in pattern.

or…

  • Stylecraft Special Chunky: This is a lighter chunky yarn, with approx. 140m/100gr
    • 2 x 100g balls in Silver – Colour A
    • 1 x 100g ball in Royal – Colour B
    • Gauge: 10 sts and 9 rows in 10cm x 10cm worked in pattern.

You will also need:

  • 9mm tunisian crochet hook 30cm long or with extension
  • Needle to sew edges together (if you prefer it instead of slip stitch)

Abbreviations

ch – chain

st – stitch

Tss – tunisian simple stitch

Tdc – tunisian double crochet

lp – loop(s)

sl st – slip stitch

yo – yarn over

end st – last stitch of forward pass (see stitch guide below)

Stitch Guide

Foundation Row – Forward Pass: Chain number of stitches needed. Skip first chain, insert hook under back strand of next chain, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat until last chain.

Return Pass: Yarn over pull through one loop on hook, (yarn over and pull through two loops on hook) until you have one loop left on hook.

Last stitch of any forward pass (End st): Insert hook under last vertical bar and strand behind it, yarn over and pull up a loop.

Tunisian Simple Stitch (Tss): Insert hook from right to left under next front vertical bar, yarn over and pull up a loop.

Tunisian Double Crochet (Tdc): Yarn over, insert hook from right to left under next from vertical bar (as in Tss), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook. For this pattern you will work Tdc one row below than where you would usually work it.

To change colours at the start of next forward pass: work previous return pass normally until you have two loops left on your hook. Drop old colour and pick up new colour, yarn over and pull through two loops on hook.

Slip st as in Tss: Insert hook from right to left under next front vertical bar, pull through two loops on hook.

Slip st End st: Insert hook under last vertical bar and strand behind it, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Instructions

There are only a few differences in the pattern for each cowl. The grey one is wider and has less amount of rows than the barley one. I will write the pattern for the barley/olive cowl and will note any differences in a parenthesis for the grey/royal blue one.

With A chain 35 (40). Work foundation forward pass, you should have 35 (40) st, each loop in the hook counts as a st. Work return pass.

Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, Tss in next st and each st across until last st, work End st. Work return pass.

Row 2 – 3: Repeat Row 1.

Row 4: Skip first vertical bar, Tss in next st and each st across until last st, work End st. Work return pass, change to B at the end of return pass. No need to cut yarns, you can carry it along on the back.

Row 5: Skip first vertical bar, Tss in next 2 st, 2Tdc one row below, *3 Tss, 2Tdc one row below, repeat from * until last four sts, Tss in next 3 sts, Tdc one row below, work End st. Work return pass, change to A at the end of return pass. No need to cut the yarn, you can carry it along on the back.

Row 6: Repeat Row 1.

Row 7 – 66 (7 – 60): Repeat Rows 1 to 6.

Row 67 – 71 (61 -65): Repeat Rows 1 to 5.

Row 72 (66): Skip first vertical bar, slip st as in Tss in next st and each st across until last st, slip st End st.

Fold the fabric lengthways so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing you and sew in the long edge to make a tube. You can use slip st or any other joining method you like. Turn the fabric over so that the right side is facing (make sure all the ends remain inside the tube) and close the tube to turn it into a cowl by sewing both edges together. You will be sewing one circumference against another so that you end up with something like a donut (I am not sure I am making any sense so please ask if you are totally lost!). Don’t sew the four layers together or you won’t be able to hide the seams on the inside of the cowl when you are wearing it. You can see the seam in the picture below.

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If you have any questions, please ask 🙂 Hope you give it a try!

x

Sol

The chunky cowl craze

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How are you? Thanks for stopping by 🙂 I wanted to write a quick post to share this mad, crazy love I have developed for really chunky and cosy cowls!

My mum came to visit a couple of months ago and of course we went shopping to Primark. Given the difference in temperature between home and here (even in October) she bought this chunky white cowl for a trip up to the Highlands, which I didn’t particularly like at all when she showed it to me. When she was leaving though, she decided she couldn’t take that back home since she would never wear it and left it for me despite my assurance that I had enough scarves and cowls already.

Then one day I wore it out for a cold day shopping in town, and I LOVED IT. So warm, cosy and the fact that is chunky just makes it even better. And then the craze began… I went over to Ginger Twist Studio to see Jess and get some nice chunky yarn to make myself a lovely tunisian crochet chunky cowl.

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A week later, I bought some more chunky yarn from Deramores and now I have two finished cowls in a new tunisian pattern and another new design on the way! I know… I get so easily obsessed. It has been the most relaxing thing to crochet on train journeys though… just the perfect project except for the fact that I have to carry one extra bag for my chunky yarn. It is worth it of course 🙂

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As you can see from the pictures it is the same pattern for both cowls just different sizes depending on the heaviness of the yarn. The cream/green one was done with Woolyknit Lofty Chunky which I got from Ginger Twist, lovely dense and warm yarn. The grey/royal blue one used Stylecraft Life Chunky which is less heavy and a bit fluffier. I used the same amount of yarn in grams for both (approx. 150g) which allowed the grey one to be a bit bigger but since the yarn is not as dense you can mould the cowl around you very nicely. The cream/green one is more stiff but just the perfect size to keep you warm without it being uncomfortable in any way.

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I leave you with the pictures in the meantime but I will post the pattern soon. I am trying to figure out the best way to do it since it does involve changing colours and stitch pattern in tunisian crochet and it can be a bit confusing (it is dead simple once you understand it I swear) so I think I will post how to do this as part of my Tunisian Crochet 101 series and then post the pattern after that with links to the tutorial.

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The second chunky cowl pattern is still in progress, will post pictures of the finished product after a few more train rides 🙂 Hopefully I will have satisfied my crazy chunky needs by then!

x

Sol